Under Way

I'm watching the sunrise as we motor north through lumpy seas. The wind has been too light to easily sail upwind in and our weather window for getting to La Paz is only supposed to last until the weekend--so we're motor assisted sailing.
With the sun being up I can see how calm conditions are, but in the dark, when I'm not sure what the seas look like and can't pinpoint the source of noises the seas and wind seem to grow. I'm grateful when my three-hour night watch ends and I can snuggle into bed. Although on our first night out, sleep only comes fitfully.
We were welcomed back on the water by another turtle, and then four more. I had been told that sea turtles have made a great comeback. That all those hatching programs, where tourists gather eggs then set the little turtles free, have had a great effect. Last time we were more likely to see a carcass than a live turtle. And the few we did see (probably 4-5 on the entire coast) I greeted with a whispered prayer for their survival.

We surprised a humpback yesterday (and it surprised us!). It surfaced just off our bows, coming directly at us. It made a quick dive to clear us. I was mesmerized (and a bit terrified and paralyzed) or I would have run to the depth sounder to watch it pass underneath us. A little later we watched a mama and baby making progress, in the same direction as us.
It can be heart-wrenchingly beautiful out here--made more so by knowing how fragile it all is. I've never stopped feeling awed and privileged and never stopped whispering prayers.
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